wandering apricot

July 13, 2008

Shifting food habits

Filed under: books, food — apricot @ 11:51 am

I picked up this book at the library last week. It took only about an hour to read, but offered a hearty serving of, well, food for thought (sorry for that). My main qualm about his book was his rather vague and imprecise references to the “Western diet.” He praises Mediterranean diets–and his forbears’ Jewish diet–for being much healthier than modern American food habits; yet he continually castigates “the Western diet” for its flawed nutritionism and failure to approach eating from a holistic standpoint. I suppose he is equating the “Western diet” with the American diet, although obviously France and Italy count as “the West,” right?

I do think Pollan made some very useful observations about how we eat, however. His wholesale denunciation of food science–for example, infusing whole grains and protein hither and thither–was interesting in sight of my history of medicine course a few terms ago. We studied science-fueled fads like the glandular extract craze of the late 19th/early 20th centuries and the attempts of scientists to reduce food to its component parts (carbohydrate, fats, etc). I feel a little less cynical towards having the extra bit of fiber in my ice cream than he does, I suppose, but I can buy his point that meddling with food can make it less healthful for the human body.

These days, a la Pollan, I avoid processed foods as much as possible; I don’t eat chips, soda, frozen meals, that sort of thing. I simply feel better when I eat food that I have made from scratch (although I haven’t gotten to the point of baking my own bread!). I find that Chinese, Thai, and Italian food are the easiest for me to make. However, I do like a spot of white rice and non-whole wheat pasta here and there.

Plus, when making my own food, I can count the calories, which is essential to my weight-monitoring. I have been counting them more or less every day since February and March, and it has really made a difference in how much I eat, and what I eat. Worlds of difference in how I feel! I am not obsessive about calorie-counting, especially when it comes to stuff like baby carrots, lettuces, and so forth, but do my best to be consistent about dense, rich foods like meat, oils, pasta/rice, and sugar. So that’s my main tip-of-the-hat to food science and nutritionism: I count calories.

But I am contemplating a few more changes on how I eat, what I eat. I have noticed that many of my friends are eating differently these days, too: lots are vegetarians, or lacto-ovo-pescatarians, or some variety thereof. Basically, the main question is: what do you eat, how, and why?

Subissues are:

1. Every time I am in the grocery store, I stand in front of the produce and debate whether I should go with organic or conventional. In your opinion, is organic worth it? I think fruit especially tastes better when organic, but…it’s so darn expensive.

2. Meat. I like meat. I don’t eat a lot of it; perhaps 3-4 oz. twice a day at most, and then infrequently. I have lots of vegetarian days inadvertently, because I think meat is too expensive. I don’t really eat beef, simply because I don’t care for the taste, but I love pork. And seafood. I can leave the rest. Should I eat meat? How?

3. CSA boxes–I have been hearing a lot about these. Are they worth it, and how much are they? I think I would just end up with a lot of wasted produce.

4. Other food books to recommend? Not so much recipes or diet books or “domestic fiction,” but some thoughtful, provocative discussions of food? I’d especially be interested in books that made you change something about your eating habits.

And to close out, here’s a picture of a shared meal for Mr. P and I: a cup white rice each (340 kcal!! Ridiculous!!), bok choy with garlic, Chinese chives speckled with bits of bacon, and an egg-tomato-scallion scramble. (and also my toes, although those are not for eating).

8 Comments »

  1. There are few things better than freshly baked bread. That being said, I’m probably a better baker than cook, so I’m sure the quality of my bread relative to my cooking is probably better than my bread compared to other bread.

    Some of the easiest stuff to make (and my first bread baking experience) comes from this NY Times recipe for no-knead bread–watery dough with a just a little yeast and a super-long rise time, and, you guessed, no kneading. Our family recipe for oatmeal bread is also probably the best bread on the face of the planet.

    Comment by Coconuts — July 13, 2008 @ 12:12 pm | Reply

  2. Tease us not, sir. Would you share this oatmeal bread recipe, or is it strictly a family affair?

    Comment by apricot — July 13, 2008 @ 12:18 pm | Reply

  3. Your meal looks beautiful. :)

    I aim for local, sustainable, and organic whenever I can, because I think the quality of the food is better, and I also feel better about supporting and consuming it. I prefer shopping at farmers’ markets because there’s less packaging (I bring my own cloth bags) and I can get my food directly from the people who produce it. Unfortunately I’m not as vigilant as I should be; convenience so often trumps all. I would say about 60% of the time I eat organic fruits and vegetables, whole grains, and seafood but not other kinds of meat; I do this both at home and in restaurants. Another 25% of the time I eat out and don’t check how/where the restaurants (or my friends, for that matter) source their food. The last 15% of the time I eat whatever, and that can include meat (particularly bacon, which I have trouble resisting) and processed junk. I haven’t tasted beef in a very long time, nor soda, and I never eat tofu. :)

    The way I eat depends very much on my planning-and-shopping routine. I refuse to eat fruit from supermarkets (except for what isn’t grown locally, like bananas and pineapples), and prefer not to get my vegetables there either. We used to get a CSA box but I did waste a lot of the produce because I got lazy about cooking it, so now I do meal planning (more like outlining) before I shop. Usually Erik and I spend our Saturday or Sunday morning at the farmers’ market (Santa Monica on Saturdays; Hollywood on Sundays) and at Trader Joe’s or Whole Foods buying our produce, bread, eggs, and other supplies for the week. We also get those Evert-Fresh bags to keep the greens fresh longer. Still, we waste more than we’d like. I get lazy, and everything food-related goes totally downhill upon even one day’s non-cleaning of the kitchen.

    It’s interesting you posted this now because we just got back from Portland, where we visited a farmers’ market and also talked with friends who live there and follow a very different lifestyle than most Angelenos. It got me thinking about my own consumption habits (not just food), so I might be altering those a bit after we get back. One friend, Stella, actually went out to a ranch with her partner so they could meet their beef and watch it be slaughtered; now they have a side of beef in their giant freezer that they feel comfortable about eating. People eat a lot more meat in Portland than I expected, but there also seems to be much more well-raised meat around (and more consciousness about that), so perhaps it makes sense. Eco/organic/local/ethical awareness there seems to be a way of life for much of the population, and I liked that.

    I recently read John Robbins’s The Food Revolution and learned a lot from it; Robbins is a committed vegan and has a lot to say about why meat is bad for us (for so many different reasons). I also read Daniel Rothenberg’s With These Hands, which is more about farmworkers than the food they produce, but it also kept me thinking about where my fruits and veggies come from. Judith Levine’s book, Not Buying It, is likewise only peripherally about food, but provides some good fodder for thinking about consuming/buying.

    For me, eating, shopping, and environmentalism are all of a piece, which sometimes gets overwhelming when I’m standing in a grocery aisle trying to balance sustainable production with packaging with health. But these are things worth thinking about, so I willingly devote brain space to these subjects!

    I could talk about all this for hours if you’d let me.

    Comment by lisa — July 14, 2008 @ 11:48 am | Reply

  4. Why, I’d let you! Please talk more, you are truly informed.

    I have been thinking about investing in some of those green bags or some other veg-life extender. I figured out how to keep my herbs fresh for 2 weeks or so, but fruit dies real quick on me. And greens too.

    I remember watching men slaughter hogs as a 5-year old in China, and it was very educational. There was a lot of screaming and pooping from the pigs. However, I wasn’t at all traumatized by it, I just remember thinking it was fascinating. I’m not sure I have the same courage these days, however, to match your friend Stella :0)

    Comment by apricot — July 14, 2008 @ 4:55 pm | Reply

  5. ooh! i’ve been thinking about this a bit and this summer, we’ve got a csa box (one box every two weeks for two people) and i have to say, i don’t think i’d do it forever, but it’s a great starter for making myself shift to a greener diet.
    i mean, i’d been cooking with mostly vegetables for a long time but it was eggplant and broccoli year-round. for us, meat is a super-splurge, with the exception of prosciutto which i toss into practically everything. so meat-centered dishes happen only about once a month. in any case, the csa is kind of an experiment in forcing myself to learn what’s in season when and learn how to cook with veggies that were previously unfamiliar or unappealing to me.
    because i’m manic about not letting any of it go to waste (although about half of my last week’s huge bunch of parsley did end up in the trash, so lisa is right in that you can end up feeling wasteful), i do end up figuring out what to do with most of it. it takes more work and planning than skibbling down to the store every few days.
    that said, once i really get a feel for what is in season when and what the price point for it should be (maybe after a full year with the csa?), i’ll probably switch over to farmer’s markets for more choice and flexibility. for now, though, i’m very happy with it.

    Comment by msbabe — July 16, 2008 @ 12:51 pm | Reply

  6. Oop! Somehow I thought the system would email me if anyone else left comments on this, but I guess I confused your blog with someone else’s. :| Well, I will ponder this subject more and email you about it separately sometime. :)

    Comment by lisa — August 6, 2008 @ 8:25 pm | Reply

  7. Oops, now it looks like our bread recipe really is secret, which it certainly is not. Unfortunately it appears that sometime in the last 24 hours the sheet on which I had written the recipe down has disappeared! I think I remember it, though, so here goes.

    Combine in a bread-sized mixing bowl:
    1 c oats
    1 c whole wheat flour (or 1/2 c flour 1/2 c wheat germ)
    2 T margarine (or oil or butter…I use butter)
    1/4 c brown sugar
    2 c boiling water

    Stir with a wooden spoon or something, and let cool until lukewarm (don’t want to kill your yeasties).

    Dissolve 1 T yeast (1 packet) in 1/2 warm water, add to cooled oat mixture.
    Add some flour. I usually start by mixing in two cups of some sort of all-purpose or bread flour and beating hard until it’s smooth-ish, and then add more a half-cup at a time, until it stops being too sticky to knead/mix by hand, at which point I dump it out and knead, adding flour a bit at a time if it’s too sticky.

    But really, just add flour until it’s wet but not too too sticky. I think the recipe calls for 5 cups but from my experience and my mom’s advice that’s way high.

    Knead for a while (five minutes? maybe more?). This bread has no problem rising so you don’t need to knead for too long.

    Place the dough in a greased container (I use the same bowl I mixed it in), cover with a towel or cling wrap or something, and let it rise until doubled. It usually rises really really fast for me, but if I recall the recipe says 1.5 to 2 hours.

    Punch down and form loaves. I don’t have loaf pans so I make three free form loaves and put them all on a cookie sheet, but at home we make two loaves, in bread pans. Cover the loaves and let rise again, till doubled.

    Preheat the oven to 350˚ F, and bake the loaves for 30-40 minutes/until they’re done.

    Eat one loaf immediately out of the oven. Yes that is part of the recipe.

    Comment by Coconuts — August 12, 2008 @ 12:06 am | Reply

  8. I can’t wait to try this recipe. Thanks, Coconuts.

    Comment by apricot — September 4, 2008 @ 2:40 pm | Reply


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